天津煎饼馃子:豆粉“画”饼落蛋香******
中新社天津1月3日电 题:天津煎饼馃子:豆粉“画”饼落蛋香
作者 王君妍 王在御
凛冬的天津晨光熹微,一个简单的招牌“九河张记”挂在街边老房子青砖墙上,阵阵香味随着热气从老房中飘来。
早上来一套煎饼馃子,和附近的街坊邻居聊聊天,已成“卫嘴子”丁大爷几十年的习惯。“您要想吃最正宗的天津小吃,那还得是煎饼馃子,尤其是街边旮旯的老店铺,几十年了还是这个老味儿。”
九河下梢天津卫,因河而兴,自明代1404年正式筑城至今已有618年的历史。锅巴菜、卷圈、炸糕……被网友称为“碳水天堂”的天津,“早点”异常丰富,其中最具代表性的还得是“煎饼馃子”。
据天津民俗专家、专栏作家由国庆介绍,煎饼馃子的由来与天津古老的码头文化密切相关。“老天津卫是河海商埠大码头,搬运工、买卖人较多,一手卷个吃食,一边忙活也不耽误,煎饼馃子也就成了因需而来的快餐。”
“正不正宗,得食客说了算。”话音未落,“九河张记”的张建明师傅便舀一勺绿豆面到铁板,手腕轻轻一转,几秒钟便摊好一张煎饼。磕一个鸡蛋摊匀,辅以面酱、豆腐乳、葱花等,铺上馃子或馃箅(bì)儿(薄脆),用铲子轻巧折叠,一套煎饼馃子几分钟内便新鲜出炉,热气腾腾的焦香味驱散了空气中的寒意。
摊煎饼看似简单,其中讲究却不少。“就得用纯绿豆面,绿豆还得是现磨的,铁板的温度必须达到210℃左右,手速也要快,摊出来的煎饼才能又香又脆,还糊不了。”张师傅天津话说得“溜”,手上的活儿更“溜”,不一会又摊好了一套。
随后,张师傅从灶台下拿出了一个小瓶,展示他的“独家秘方”——自制调味料。“每家煎饼馃子味道都不太一样,秘密都在小瓶儿里。谈不上啥秘方,但每家都有点儿差别。”张师傅称,各家煎饼馃子味道都有所不同,食客吃惯了一个口味之后,就会觉得别人家做的“不正宗”,但其实这种对细微差别的喜厌,正是大家童年时留下的味觉回忆,久而久之便成为家门口的煎饼馃子“最正宗”。
天津姑娘张榕已在加拿大留学六年。她回国的第一件事,就是吃一套煎饼馃子,以解乡愁。不仅如此,在每次出国之前,张榕也会在家门口买一套煎饼馃子带着在赶飞机的路上吃,她说,只有家门口的煎饼馃子,才是属于童年的回忆。
“现在我们生产的‘家庭版DIY煎饼馃子’今年已经出口到澳大利亚,让身处异国他乡的食客足不出户便可亲手制作家乡的美食。”天津煎饼馃子协会会长宋冠鸣拿起一盒家庭版煎饼馃子说道,“别看这个小盒子不大,绿豆面、馃箅碎及甜面酱等调料应有尽有,就连摊煎饼专用的竹制煎饼刮子也预备上了,可谓‘麻雀虽小,五脏俱全’”。
很多远离家乡的天津人,走在外地的街头巷尾,看到店铺菜单上种类繁多的“煎饼套餐”,不由得会认为那是“异端”美食。唯有回到家门口,一大早买上一套刚出炉的煎饼馃子,边吃边走在熟悉的市井街道上,看行人漫步,听车水马龙,得空儿与街坊聊几句,末了再来口热豆浆,以这样的方式打开一天的生活,可能才算得上是正宗天津卫。
也许味觉就是乡愁,无论海外游子还是离乡旅人,即便口音变了,但对故乡煎饼馃子的回忆,依然烙在心中。这种遍布街头巷尾的民间小吃承载的尽是家乡的情结,好似一片光落在浮世一隅,让烟火气照亮了游子归途路。(完)
中新网评:处理核污水绝不是日本自家私事******
中新网北京1月19日电(蒋鲤)日本政府近日称,将于2023年春夏期间开始向海洋排放经过处理的福岛第一核电站核污水。日本罔顾国内民众及周边国家的屡屡反对,企图将核污水“一倒了之”,把一件关乎全球海洋生态环境和公众健康的事当成了自家私事。
资料图:日本福岛第一核电站。2011年,福岛核电站事故发生后,大量放射性物质泄漏到大气层和太平洋,对周围环境造成了难以逆转的伤害,数十万人被迫撤离该地区。时至今日,作为日本邻国之一的韩国仍未解除福岛海鲜禁令。
日本以核污水存储能力即将达到上限为由,在2021年4月13日,正式决定将福岛第一核电站核污水排入太平洋。过去一年多,日本政府和东京电力公司一直在持续推进核污水排海计划。
日本政府辩称,这些核污水经多核素处理系统(ALPS)处理后很安全,甚至“可以喝”,这样的表态无疑在愚弄大众。
事实上,经过处理的核污水仍含有多种放射性物质,核污水一旦排放入海就无法回收,长期来看,将会给海洋生态带来难以估量的潜在威胁,最终危害人类健康。
因此,核污水排海计划推出后,遭到日本民众强烈反对。日本《朝日新闻》2022年3月公布的问卷调查显示,福岛县、宫城县和岩手县受访的42个市町村长中,约六成反对东京电力公司福岛第一核电站核污水排放入海。日本全国渔业协会联合会也多次申明立场,反对该计划。
日本政府认为,核污水排海是最便宜、最省事的解决方案,但此举却将周边国家乃至全世界置于核污染风险中。太平洋非日本一家之海,核污水会随着洋流流动,其影响势必会跨越国界,危害周边国家乃至整个国际社会的公共福祉和利益。
《韩国经济新闻》发文称,相关研究认为,福岛核污水如果排放入海,约7个月后将到达济州等韩国海域,该国水产业和旅游业将遭受相当大的损失。
德国南极海洋机构也曾发出警告,若日本将所有核污水排入海中,不到半年,整个太平洋都将面临高度辐射威胁,包括远在大洋另一端的美国。太平洋地区人民更是对日本该计划持反对意见。
日本作为《联合国海洋法公约》缔约国,有义务保护海洋环境。然而,在核污水排海方案的正当性、核污水数据的可靠性、净化装置的有效性、环境影响的不确定性等问题上,日本未能作出科学、可信的说明。
国际原子能机构技术工作组虽已三次赴日实地考察评估,但尚未就日排海方案的安全性给出结论,并且对日本提出诸多澄清要求和整改意见。在此情况下,日本仍执意推进核污水排海工程建设,这是极不负责任的行为。
太平洋不是日本的下水道,日本必须正视各方合理关切,在与周边国家等相关利益方和国际原子能机构充分协商后,制定合理的核污水处理方案。日本也要着眼长远,若只顾眼前,执意将核污水排放入海,不仅其自身,周边国家乃至全世界都将为之买单,其后果必将会危害数代人。
Fukushima water disposal by no means Japan’s own business
By John Lee
(ECNS) -- Japan has announced it will release treated wastewater from the wrecked Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant into the Pacific Ocean this year.
Although Fukushima wastewater disposal affects global marine ecological environment protection and public health, Japan has turned a deaf ear to domestic and international opposition to dumping the contaminated water into the sea, treating the "global" matter as its own business.
The Fukushima accident in 2011 had sent large quantities of radiation into the atmosphere and the Pacific Ocean, causing irreversible damage to the surrounding environment, and hundreds of thousands of people were forced to evacuate the area. South Korea still maintains its import ban on Japanese seafood from areas affected by the Fukushima nuclear disaster.
On April 13, 2021, Japan announced it had decided to discharge contaminated radioactive wastewater in Fukushima Prefecture into the sea due to dwindling storage space, with the Japanese government and plant operator Tokyo Electric Power Company Holdings Inc. promoting the release plan over the past year.
The Japanese government argues that the water treated by an advanced liquid processing system, or ALPS, is safe and drinkable, which is undoubtedly fooling the public.
In fact, the treated wastewater still includes a variety of radioactive substances and can’t be recycled once discharged into the sea, which will pose a great threat to marine ecology and ultimately endanger human health in the long run.
Therefore, the discharge plan has been strongly opposed in Japan. According to a questionnaire conducted by The Asahi Shimbun, nearly 60 percent of mayors of 42 municipalities in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures oppose the discharge plan. The National Fisheries Cooperative Federation of Japan has also repeatedly stated its opposition in public.
The Japanese government believes that dumping Fukushima wastewater into the sea is the cheapest and most convenient solution, but neighboring countries and even the whole world will be at risk of nuclear pollution.
The Pacific Ocean doesn’t belong to Japan and the wastewater flow along oceanic currents will surely break boundaries and endanger public welfare and the interests of neighboring countries and even the international community.
The Korea Economic Daily reported that related research concluded that if contaminated water from Fukushima is released into the ocean, it would only take seven months for the contaminated water to reach the shores of Jeju Island, with the country's aquaculture and tourism suffering considerable losses.
According to the calculation of a German marine scientific research institute, radioactive materials will spread to most of the Pacific Ocean within half a year from the date of discharge, and the U.S. and Canada will be affected by nuclear pollution. People in the Pacific region also oppose the discharge plan.
As a participant of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, Japan has the obligation of protecting the marine environment.
However, it hasn’t offered a full and convincing explanation on issues like the legitimacy of the discharge plan, the reliability of data on the nuclear-contaminated water, the efficacy of the treatment system or the uncertainty of environmental impact.
Though the IAEA has yet to complete a comprehensive review after three investigations in Japan, the Japanese side has been pushing through the approval process for its discharge plan and even started building facilities for the discharge. It is rather irresponsible for Japan to act against public opinion at home and concerns abroad.
The Pacific Ocean is not a private Japanese sewer. The country must seriously heed the voices of the international community and make a reasonable plan for the Fukushima wastewater disposal after full consultation with stakeholders and international agencies.
If it only seeks instant interest and insists on discharging the contaminated water into the sea, not only itself, but also its neighboring countries and the entire world will pay for the decision and several generations will be forced to bear the consequence.
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